Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Fun Facts

-This is my address:
Rebekah Horvath
s/c ACI Baobab Center
B.P. 5270
Dakar – Fann
Senegal


As long as you send me mail that isn't a package before the 10th of April I should get it. I will reply. Promise.

-"If you see a monkey sitting at the foot of a tree, he is either getting ready to climb it or he has just come down." (in French) A young Senegalese man gave us this insight at our gender cultural orientation. It was in reference to platonic male/female relations. He's not a believer and neither are most of the people here. They're also not believers in sex before marriage, public displays of afection, or homosexuality but, since these are "fun facts," we will save the gender blog for a later time.

-There are many ways to caffeinate yourself in Senegal: 1) Nescafe-Instant coffee crystals that you put in a cup with lots of powdered milk and, if you're Senegalase, sugar cubes. This is the locals' favorite. This is the form of caffine I enjoy every morninging with my baguette, my butter, and the homemade blackberry jam I gave my family as a present. I'm not complaining. 2) Cafe Touba- A very strong, sweet, spiced coffee. http://www.bayefall.com/id15.html We drink this with Ramadan our casual culture and Wolof teacher who serves it from his tent located down the street from the Baobab center where we take classes. More on Ramadan later because he is AMAZING. 3) Ataya-The traditional tea served in three decreasingly strong and increasingly sweet rounds, sometimes with mint involved. When making it, they pour it from great hights between tiney cups. I love ataya more than I can explain and I'm going to learn how to make it even though my family doesn't drink it. 4) Expresso- Jess and I discoved a fancy coffee shop down the steet from our houses. We're thinking most of their business is beans and machines but they also sell fresh expresso and thus a little tase of home. They gave us free shots the first time we stumbled in and I don't think they yet realize how worthwhile that decision was.

Enough for now. Love love. (Pictures soon hopefully)

Monday, January 25, 2010

Character Profile One: Mam

One mystery down, many to go. I live in a boarding house. I know the suspense was killing all of you so I felt that it was important to get that piece of information out of the way. Yes, my actual family is quite large. Yes, they have visitors often. However, there are about 8 (?) other people who live in the same castle and have various friends over as well and are fed by my aunt.

Now that that is out of the way, on to smaller, better things: Mam. Mam is my 90-ish Senegalese grandmother. In Senegal there are no such things as retirement homes. Some Frenchie once tried to open one but it failed miserably because in a culture that's all about family and hospitality the grandparents live at home and social security is minimum at best. Thus Mam lives with us. Mam only speaks Wolof. Mam is teensy. Mam is missing many teeth. Mam drapes herself in beautiful fabrics, covers her head with a gorgeous lace veil, and checks herself out in the mirror often. Mam is always counting her Muslim prayer beads. Mam is, hands down, my favorite person in the house. When I first arrived she welcomed me onto her bed, complemented me on my many bracelets (I think) , and bonded with me over the fact that neither of our feet touched the ground when we sat on the bed. Although I can't understand a word she says and it is clear she was never a charades champion, I spend a lot of time reading in her room and I think (hope) we both enjoy eachothers company. When hanging out with Mam, it becomes clear how much families have in common regardless of their culture. Recently the power went out. Like most evenings I was in Mam's room and because of the power outage a candle was lit. I continued to read my book until she began to yell at me pointing to my book and her eyes. I tried to reassure her, pointing at the candle and giving a thumbs up but she just sighed and crossed her arms. When my host aunt came in, Mam thought it necessary to communicate through my aunt that she was incredibly worried about the health of my eyes. Another time Mam took about an hour to eat dinner. She was still at the bowl well after everyone had finished. All the younger ladies were talking shit in French while she ate: "She sure does take her time doesn't she?" "Well, she's an age where you can afford to take your time." Mam just continued to contentedly eat her dinner. I love this woman. She is my motivation to learn Wolof (although everyone else in the house speaks it as well). I'm going to try to take a photo of her soon. Love love.

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

I'm a detective

Let's try this again. One more time for good measure. So regardless of what I DO manage to post, I must accept that there will always be more to say. Life here is fascinating and strange and wonderful and confusing all in one. I wish I didn't feel so awkward taking photos because I don't feel like my words do my surroundings justice-perhaps that topic will just have to wait for a later post. Currently, my life here is still filled with mysteries regarding just about everything. This culture is filled with contradictions as it tries to find it's place between modern and traditional. A current favorite mystery of mine: who lives in my house and who is just passing through. The question isn't who is my family because the word for family in wolof means to share and the more you share with, the better. It has nothing to do with blood. Thus the "family" of neighbors, friends, and actual relatives are constantly cycling through the house and I'm never entirely sure who stays and who leaves at night. The question of who lives in my house is further complicated by the fact that I live in a mansion. Although the interior is sparse and simple (Muslims aren't big on decoration except for in their dress...) there are three stories and the outside is quite fancy. I haven't been given a full tour and I'm pretty sure I'm not welcome to explore at my will: all is very mysterious. It's not bad, just mysterious.



Enough for now-I'm going back on the job. Love love. (Once again no spell check so sorry about that. You guys can handle it I'm sure.

Safe, Sound and Online

Guys, the worst thing since I've arrived in Dakar just happened: I wrote you all a wonderful, eloquent, and incrediably informative/discripive blog post and it was eaten by the computer. I am here. I am safe. I am happy. Those are the basics. I don't really have time to re-write all that was said in the masterpiece that was my former post but some time soon I will hopefully get a chance to re-write it. I love you all.



For now, check out this: culturethrash.blogspot.com



Kelly loves blogging. She's an English major. She'll keep you informed. I'll get better with technology. Also, no spell check or time to go back and edit. Next time, promise.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

This is only a test

So here we go a blogging. I know this is new to a lot of us (Mom, Dad, Grandma, me, etc.) so I wanted to do a test run to make sure everyone could figure it out. This is that test run. Welcome.
Let's try posting a link (Home sweet home?) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dakar


A photo from online (To give some perspective)


A photo from my computer (This big guy is Tommy, he lives in California with my family. Apparently they have quite a few of them in Senegal. However, those tortoises don't have the pleasure of being dressed up as Santa by my mother. Lucky Tommy.)


Now that all tests have been completed, here are a few fun facts about my adventure which will begin in approximately two days:
  • I am bringing only one backpack which will serve me for more than four months. I have not packed it yet.
  • There is a lot I know nothing about: my host family, Wolof (the native language I will be learning), sticking out and being thoroughly judged because of my skin color, the list goes on and on and on. This is about learning.
  • In Senegal, you eat on the floor in a giant circle with one platter of food for everyone. You must only eat with your right hand. Oh man, I'm excited!
  • Tonight I will begin a never-ending battle with the possibility of getting malaria: lots of pills, lots of DEET bug spray, and a mosquito net which I have a feeling I will come to love.

And away we go!